TOLEDO

Narrator
Although it is only in recent years that the Spanish have started to appreciate their historic legacy, the city of Toledo has known for many years that it had an extraordinary past. It was ever the heart of the ancient kingdom of Castile, many centuries before Madrid was more than a glimmer in the eye of a king. It was also one of the most important cities of Moorish Spain, the most important city of Jewish Spain and its cathedral is the tallest and the most holy of all cathedrals in Catholic Spain. 
To be able to observe the city far from the bustle of the centre, the best course of action is a room in the 'Parador Nacional', one of a state-owned chain of inns that are often located in historic buildings all over the country, and that have been converted for the purposes of receiving visitors.

Hotelier
Good afternoon.

Robert Elms
Afternoon. I've got a reservation.

Hotelier
What name is it in?

Robert Elms
My name is Mr. Elms, E L M S.

Hotelier
May I see your passport, please?

Robert Elms
Yes, here it is.

Hotelier
Thank you.

Robert Elms
Just for the one night.

Hotelier
Just one night, fine. Please sign here.

Robert Elms
Here?

Hotelier
Thank you. You may put away your passport now. Welcome, sir. The porter will accompany you to your room..

Robert Elms
Thanks. See you later.

Hotelier
See you later.

Narrator
For anyone interested in carrying home a souvenir from Toledo, the traditional Toledan craftwork, that uses exactly the same techniques as it did in the past, is still going strong.

Robert Elms
José, what exactly is being done here?

José
Here we do damascene work.

Robert Elms
Damascene?

José
Damascene. The name comes from Damascus, from the Arabs of Syria, and it consists of 24 and 22-carat gold inlay.

Robert Elms
How exactly do you do it?

José
What my colleague here is doing, is inlaying gold threads onto the black base, which is steel. With his left hand he inlays the gold and with the right he guides it to create the design.

Robert Elms
Is it possible to see the difference between machine-made and hand-made articles?

José
Yes, let me explain: here we have three items. One has been engraved with a die: the die is in a press and it does the engraving. This piece is flawless. Then there is electrolysis. That is a deposit of gold, gold plate, but it wears off quickly. Now this is the real work: look how we can see the petals on the flowers, and the birds' plumage. Another difference is that if you turn the piece over, you should be able to see all the dents made by the hammer on the other side.

Robert Elms
Thank you very much.

José
Thank you.

Narrator
In the days when the Moors ruled over the whole of the peninsula, the Jewish community became one of the most important. In Toledo, one of the few synagogues that have survived has been converted into the museum of the Jewish civilisation in Spain. From the time of their arrival, with the Romans, up until their expulsion in 1492, the Spanish Jewish community was one of the most important Europe has known. As they were principally lawyers, doctors and diplomats, they left an important legacy and Spain also made its mark upon them. Sephardi is one of the most important Jewish languages in the world and it is also one of the oldest forms of Spanish still spoken today in some isolated communities. In Spain today there is a small but growing Jewish community, which is slowly rediscovering a history that had been long forgotten.